But what if - despite endless hours rifling through all manner of gorgeous frocks - 'the one' remains elusive? Do you settle for almost perfect? Or do you create the perfect dress based on those sweet reveries?
With personalisation being a key movement on the wedding scene, it's no surprise to see so many brides going bespoke. Not only does it mean you can don something truly unique on your wedding day, the process allows you to explore that frothy mystique in your mind and make it material. And Devon is home to some fabulous bridal designers who are fast building a reputation for their exquisite dresses.
ELEANOR RAFFERTY
As well as beautiful gowns from the likes of Charlotte Balbier and Annasul Y, The Ivory Secret in Crediton is home to the couture bridal gown service from Eleanor Rafferty.
Tell us a little about your background and what led you to bridal design.
Growing up surrounded by the Devon countryside, artistic influence and creative people was where it all started for me; my father is a talented fine artist and ceramicist and my mother is a spectacular designer and dressmaker. I achieved a high level degree in Textile Design and landed my dream job: designing elaborate couture and bridal embellished, embroidered and printed fabrics for clients including high-end bridal designers David Fielden and Claire Pettibone, couture designers Matthew Williamson and Vivienne Westwood and top corsetiere designers buying for Dita Von Teese and Girls Aloud.
I finally decided to go it alone and set up a studio space in Devon where Liz and I designed and made our own ready-to-wear bridal collections and bespoke made-to-measure wedding gowns. With Liz's expertise in pattern cutting and dressmaking combined with my experience in fabric and high-end couture design, our mother and daughter partnership has the perfect skill set to create any bride's dream wedding dress.
We opened The Ivory Secret in 2011. We showcase a selection of exclusive handpicked gowns by some of the industry's top designers alongside our own ready-to-wear collection and bespoke service.
Where do you draw your inspiration?
My design signature is encapsulated with delicate, feminine and intricate embellishment in soft pastel hues showcased on a selection of luxurious 100% silk fabrics to perfectly frame the female form. Embellishments are created through the combination of hand and machine embroidery, print, layering and multimedia techniques. I am a very tactile designer, therefore much of my inspiration comes from handling fabrics and exploring their qualities. I am inspired by theatrical and period costume and enjoy incorporating vintage fabrics, off-cuts, antique lace, intricate trimmings and embellishments into my designs; taking a plain luxurious silk and creating a texture or beautiful dimensional embellishment is what I love most.
Talk us through the design process, from the initial consultation to the final fitting.
The aim of the initial (complementary) consultation is to get to know one another and find out your requirements for your couture wedding gown, then select fabrics and sketch ideas for shapes and embellishments. This gives you the opportunity to try on a selection of dresses from the Eleanor Rafferty collection. At this point, you may choose to go for a made to measure dress from the ready-to-wear couture collection, to use one of the dresses as a template for a bespoke design, or to have a completely bespoke gown designed and made especially for you. All required measurements will be taken and, upon confirmed order, you will take away a sketch of your dress.
At this stage you will need anywhere between 4-8 fittings in total depending on the complexity of your dress. Ideally allow 6-8 months for completion, although we will be flexible where possible. A calico toile will be made for your first fitting; this is a mock-up of your dress for us to use as a pattern. Your wedding dress will be cut from the desired silk or silks. A series of silk fittings will take place until your gown is complete and you are happy with the overall look and feel. Each dress is made to individual requirements therefore the process may vary slightly.
What are your favourite fabrics to work with?
We work predominantly with silk fabrics. Silk has a luxurious look and feel, and is very light and easy to wear as well as retaining the heat or allowing your body to breathe when needed. Of the silk family, I like to work with the more heavy weight and substantial fabrics like dupion and taffeta. However, I love the drape and overall look of the softer and ethereal fabrics like lace, tulle and chiffon. I also enjoy working vintage fabrics, trimmings, off-cuts and antique lace into designs.
What do you see as the key advantage of taking the bespoke route?
One of the most enjoyable elements is that both Liz and I get to build a real rapport with our bespoke brides. Having your wedding dress made is an exciting experience whereby the bride is very much involved every step of the way, watching her couture gown come to life. It is a gradual process and adjustments can be made along the way, ensuring you get exactly what you want. We are here to advise your concerning what shapes, styles, colours and fabrics will suit you and your design.
Every couture bride must have a dress that is a one-off design, unique to her. Eleanor's philosophy is this: your dress should reflect the most striking elements of your personality and individuality, which are representative of you. We will create a wedding dress that not only fits like a glove and accentuates the bride's figure to its very best, but also an exclusive dress that no one else will ever own or wear, all adorned with Eleanor's unique signature style of exquisitely executed embellishment.
Is there an iconic dress that you wish you had designed, or which stands out to you as an exquisite example of bridal design?
I think I'd rather say I wish I could design a dress for Dita Von Teese!
Eleanor Rafferty
01363 777500 www.theivorysecret.co.uk
KATE WALKER
Experienced bridal designer Kate Walker runs a bridal boutique in Honiton, Kate Walker Bridal, which is also home to her couture design label, Kate Walker Collection.
Tell us a little about your background and what led you to bridal design.
My degree was in Period Costume for the Screen and Stage with a specialism in historical corsetry and my dissertation focused on the History of Bridal Wear. After working for a while in the theatre, I began to work in a bridal shop as a sales consultant and seamstress. After a couple of years, I was lucky enough to get a job as a junior cutter and designer for couture designer Peter Brandon Couture. When Peter retired I met Sassi Holford. This is when we launched designer bridal wear label Kate Sherford, which I then designed and ran the couture workroom for ten years. It was always my dream to open my own boutique, which I did 18 months ago, where I also design and produce my own exclusive Kate Walker Collection.
Where do you draw your inspiration?
Inspiration comes from the world around me, as well as high fashion couture catwalks and red carpet events. My brides, however, are my biggest source of inspiration.
Talk us through the design process, from the initial consultation to the final fitting.
I work very closely with my clients. We will start by trying on styles in the boutique to get an idea of shape, style and detail. I will then begin to sketch the ideas with the client and at the same time we will look at fabrics together. Once the right 'recipe' has been finalised, I then begin work on the made to measure pattern for the dress. From this I make a toile, which is a cotton mock-up of the actual dress made to fit the client exactly. At the toile fitting, the final details are decided and I fit the toile to the client's body. This allows the client to see the dress begin to take shape and have input in the design details but, more importantly, it gives me a blueprint of their body. I then alter the original pattern and go ahead and cut the dress in the real fabric. This is then stitched together and fitted again. If the client has lost or gained weight by this stage, the dress can still be altered which is a massive bonus! After this fitting the dress is then finished and any hand sewing or beading takes place. The bride will then have the dress fitted one more time before she takes her dress away.
What are your favourite fabrics to work with?
I love lace and sumptuous silk duchess satins. Beautiful Thai silks and organzas are another favourite as they create an effortlessly light bridal gown.
What do you see as the key benefit of taking the bespoke route?
It is a lovely way of working as it is very organic and it gives the client control over the creation of her dream dress.
Is there an iconic dress that you wish you had designed, or which stands out to you as an exquisite example of bridal design?
Not necessarily a dress but a person...I feel that Kate Winslet is the iconic English rose. Anything she wears is very inspirational. She is curvy yet clean and classical in her style - these are elements that I keep in mind when I am designing.
Kate Walker Bridal
01404 598145 www.katewalkerbridal.com
CAROLINE FRICKER
Drawing on over 20 years in the bridal industry, Caroline Fricker runs her bespoke bridal wear label Caroline Fricker Couture from North Devon. Brides may order from her collection, use a gown as a template or have a completely bespoke gown designed. Caroline also holds design days and fittings in Bath and Cheltenham.
Tell us a little about your background and what led you to bridal design.
I come from a very creative family of artists, landscape designers and antique dealers and so my love of detail and design started early on as a child. I completed a BTEC Diploma, followed by a BA Hons degree in Fashion Design. Laura Ashley sponsored me for my final year and degree show. I worked for Laura Ashley for a short period before starting my own business designing and making wedding gowns. I was lucky enough to get 11 features in Conde Nast 'Brides' magazine and 'Wedding and Home' in the late '80s. I was showing at Harrogate and London twice a year and my name was going places...then I started a family!
Where do you draw your inspiration?
My love of wedding gowns comes from the history of costume, particularly the Edwardian and Victorian era and anything gorgeous and highly decorative. I love the miniature paintings that were so popular in these eras, capturing detailed portraits and delicate recordings of the beautiful clothes that were worn. I adore lace and silk fabric and embellishments. I get most inspired by the silk I source and just sit and feel it and then seem to go off into another world and imagine. I do draw but I often start to cut and model the gown on my dummy. I am totally absorbed by this process and do not stop until I'm satisfied!
Talk us through the design process, from the initial consultation to the final fitting.
I try to get to know the likes and dislikes of my clients, and their idiosyncrasies. I can then build a picture of their personality, which is an important part of the design process. When the fabrics have been chosen, the making process starts. The dress is first toiled in calico and then the silk. Each gown is fitted to the bride at every stage of the making process. This allows for constant alterations and adjustments, and for embellishments to be added and discussed.
What are your favourite fabrics to work with?
My favourite fabrics are silks. I love embroidered silk, silk velvet and beautiful laces, delicately embroidered chiffon and the softest tulles.
What do you see as the key benefit of taking the bespoke route?
The major benefit of getting married in a bespoke gown is that your wedding dress is made to fit your body's measurements - and yours alone. To experience the process of having your own custom-made gown will live long in your memory and the dress will become of great personal attachment to you and your family. It may well become a family heirloom to be treasured.
The process of deliberation and consultancy with your own personal designer will be a unique and exciting time for you. You are listened to, given expert advice, granted a personal service and attention to detail that may well be a one-off lifetime experience. You are also party to advice on more than just the wedding dress. An experienced designer can be a sounding board, a wedding planner, a psychiatrist and a friend indeed. She can put all your woes in perspective and be a calming influence on the bride's mother and bridesmaids.
Bespoke gowns need not be excessively expensive for, more often than not, a budget can be worked to. Bespoke design is a rare skill and craft, and is to be respected and treasured. As with many crafts, it is done with love and patience and rarely for the financial rewards.
Is there an iconic dress that you wish you had designed, or which stands out to you as an exquisite example of bridal design?
An iconic gown for me is, without doubt, the Royal Wedding gown worn by Catherine Middleton and designed by Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen. It is simply stunning!
Caroline Fricker
01271 813104 www.carolinefricker.com
Words Rebecca Matthews
Copyright WED Magazine 2012
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