Behind The Seams

Wed talks to Phoebe Stockman, the Exeter-based bridal designer behind Isabelle Montagu, about creating that most special of dresses

You'll find the home of Isabelle Montagu tucked away in Castle Street Studios, Exeter. Here, designer Phoebe Stockman dreams up her utterly beautiful bridal gowns, while offering relaxed and highly personal consultations by appointment. In a career that has spanned swimwear to bridal wear, Phoebe shares her inspiration and insights into the design process.



Tell us a little about your background and your inspiration to design and make bridal gowns.
I trained in Contour Fashion at De Montfort University and, after graduating with a swimwear/surf wear collection, I went to Australia to find my way in the surf wear clothing industry. Deciding that the surf wear design opportunities were not as hands-on creative as I was hoping they would be, I soon happened upon a job as a hand beader and embellisher at a bridal wear company based in Sydney. Having found an industry that allowed me to indulge and express my creativity, that first job marked the beginning of my interest and passion for bridal gowns. I then returned to the UK to work for a small bridal boutique in London, where I learnt the skills of the design and dressmaking processes. As my experience developed, I began to design and make bespoke gowns under my brand name Isabelle Montagu (my middle names). I have recently launched my ready-to-wear collection, which still encompasses my style, high quality fabrics and embellishments, but at more accessible prices. This has led to me opening a retail flagship store based in Exeter where this collection can be viewed.



How would you describe your style?
Classic, vintage-inspired styles and silhouettes, incorporated with bohemian quirkiness.

What inspires you?
Fabrics, embellishments and the elegant fashions of times gone by.

What fabrics do you love to work with?
Laces and all types of silk fabrics.

What would be your dream brief from a bride?
A hand-painted gown!



How does the design process work?
For the bespoke process, my brides will discuss shapes that suit them and share ideas concerning styles and fabrics that they like and we go through a design development process very thoroughly together. Through further research we hone in on exactly what the bride wants and the sketched design and fabric choices are finalised. The pattern is created and a mock-up toile of her gown is made in a cotton calico fabric. This toile is tweaked to fit the bride exactly and then it is taken to pieces to create the perfect pattern to be cut in the final fabric. Plenty of time is paramount to allow time for initial changes to be made and for the bride to see a steady development of her gown and ensure she is happy at every stage.

If I am left to my own brief, then I find inspiration from different resources, whether it's visiting museums, the theatre, flicking through fashion picture books or modern day magazines, watching television and researching the internet. I might also find a fabric, a lace or embellishment that triggers ideas for a design. So if I'm free to do what I like then there's not really any boundaries to my design process!





Do you have a favourite dress from fashion, film or worn by an iconic bride?
Not conventional or bridal, but I love and have been inspired by the dresses worn by Mia Wasikowska in Alice in Wonderland, Carey Mulligan in The Great Gatsby and of course the beautiful gowns worn by the ladies in Downtown Abbey.

isabellemontagu.com






words Rebecca Matthews

Copyright Wed magazine 2017