There's something about a pre-loved piece of jewellery. Not only does it hold historic value, making for a classic and coveted 'something old', it adds unique character and meaning to your ensemble, which is what the modern wedding is all about. A vintage piece might also be steeped in sentiment and worn as a reminder of someone special. Then, of course, there's its irresistible charm: a beautiful echo of a bygone age.
Whether you're freshly engaged or pondering your finishing touches, we've gathered some expert advice from industry specialists to help you successfully source, buy and wear vintage with super-stylish aplomb.
WHY CHOOSE VINTAGE?
There's something oh-so appealing about wearing vintage on your wedding day. "Your wedding day is all about creating memories so perhaps that explains the appeal of vintage jewellery," suggests Nicola Price from Drakes Fine Jewellers (drakesfinejewellers.co.uk). "Vintage pieces evoke feelings of treasured memories and have long been a chosen keepsake by many brides. The idea of having something vintage that has been passed down by generations adds to the magic of the day."
Pre-owned Cartier ladies Tank Franchise watch from Drakes
Katie Elvin from Michael Spiers (michaelspiers.co.uk) agrees: "I think people are drawn to the idea of giving something a new lease of life or a forgotten treasure with a story behind it."
As well as a sense of mystery and ancestry - that enchanting connection with a woman you know nothing about other than you have both worn and loved the same piece of jewellery - a vintage piece breathes bespoke into your bridal style - a far cry from a modern culture dominated by mass manufacturing.
Michael Spiers
"Vintage jewellery was made in small workshops producing very limited numbers of pieces, so it is rare to find antique rings that are identical," explains Matthew Holt of Coopers Couture (cooperscouture.co.uk). "Of course, styles can be similar, so find a style that you like and ask a specialist jeweller for their advice on that era. For example, jewellery from the Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco periods are only separated by 20-30 years, but their designs, methods and ideas are radically different."
In an eco-conscious age, vintage also has the added benefit of boasting green credentials through its recyclability. "Antique and vintage jewellery is sustainable and eco-friendly," says Matthew. "Antique jewellery and gemstones can be recycled and reworked into new pieces."
As the style cycle continues to turn and fashions and trends flit and fix on various eras and aesthetics, the appeal and look of vintage remains immutable. In short, it's a timeless treasure.
Michael Spiers
"Antique and vintage jewellery will stand the test of time," says Matthew. "Whether you prefer simplicity or extravagance, there is a style that will suit every personality."
BUYING AND SOURCING VINTAGE: THE LOWDOWN
It may be the case that you immediately find and fall in love with a piece that perfectly compliments your bridal vision. But, as with everything, there are potential pitfalls so it's always best to arm yourself with as much knowledge as possible - as well as visit reputable traders - to avoid a costly mistake.
Pre-owned Rolex ladies Datejust watch from Drakes
There are a few things to consider when shopping for vintage jewellery to ensure that it is both a genuine and good quality artefact.
"Know what you are buying and look carefully at the condition of the piece," advises Katie. "Make sure it isn't showing signs of wear - whether it be stone settings as this could risk losing a stone - or worn shanks on rings which can become weak. Check the stones themselves to see if they are worn, chipped or cracked. Most of these can be repaired but it's worth knowing at the time of purchase."
Michael Spiers
Matthew elaborates: "If an antique ring is still in good condition after 100 years you can be confident that the quality is good and it was well-made. Simple repairs and maintenance are to be expected, but be sure that any alterations are in-keeping with the style of the original ring, and they have not damaged or compromised the structure or settings for example."
The more information you can obtain about the piece, the more confident you will feel about your purchase. "Age can be difficult, but if the piece is hallmarked with a date letter you can tell the year it was hallmarked, or the seller may be able to tell an approximate time period from the style of the piece," says Katie.
Then attempt to ascertain the quality of the diamonds. "Diamonds are often sold with certificates as a sign of their quality, but ensure this is from an independent source, such as GIA, EGL, IGI etc. These laboratories will grade diamonds according to the four Cs (cut, colour, clarity and carat weight)," advises Matthew. "The better the grade of each of these, the more rare and sought-after the stone. Antique and vintage rings will often feature cuts of diamond no longer used in modern jewellery, such as old-cut and rose-cut, which adds to their charm and rarity. These stones can also be removed from old rings and fashioned into new pieces of jewellery."
Drakes
If you'd prefer to have an heirloom piece reworked, a range of services is available, as Ian Hall from Lasting Impressions in Bovey Tracey explains: "I am a traditional goldsmith with the rare hand skills to reproduce a vintage designed piece of fine jewellery. The client then has the added security of knowing that the ring mount I'm handcrafting has the durability of a newly manufactured modern ring but in the older style they desire."
"I remount worn-out jewellery for clients, reproducing a ring as it was when it was new, only without all the decades of wear. This can be done using the original stones, possibly matching or re-polishing damaged or scuffed stones while they are out of the original ring mount before resetting into the newly made vintage styled mount."
Drakes
Another option is to have a new piece individually designed and made with a vintage look. "New reproduction vintage style rings can be crafted using newly mined diamonds and coloured stones containing gems which are cut/faceted in the old cutting styles not used in today's modern jewellery," says Ian.
Whether you opt for a refashioned treasure or a contemporary vintage-inspired piece, make sure you discuss every option to find one that suits you, your budget and desires best.
"At Michael Spiers, our highly skilled goldsmiths make and repair jewellery to the highest quality," says Katie. "We could advise or design reworking a vintage piece; a beautiful brooch, for example, can easily be made into a pendant and given a whole new lease of life. When making jewellery anything is possible."
Michael Spiers
WHAT TO ASK WHEN BUYING VINTAGE
Matthew Holt pinpoints the key questions to ask before you make your purchase...
What is the intrinsic value of the materials (gemstones and metals)? This is determined by their quality, weight and condition.
Are hallmarks visible on metals? This is not a sign of whether a metal is genuine or not, as hallmarking was only made a legal requirement in the UK and Europe in 1973. But it can help to date jewellery. Hallmarks can also be worn away or removed completely if a ring is altered.
Michael Spiers
Has the piece been serviced recently? Fine jewellery requires care and maintenance to ensure it is not lost or damaged. Claws used to hold gemstones should be checked by a goldsmith every few years to ensure they are not weak or damaged. This will help prevent stones from becoming loose and falling out.
Are the gemstones certified by an independent source?
Has the piece been altered or repaired in the past?
Drakes
HOW TO WEAR VINTAGE
So you've got your hands on a precious piece - but how do your wear it? "The key thing to remember when choosing bridal jewellery is there are no rules; wear what you love and not what you think you should!" says Nicola. "How about mixing old and new? A vintage necklace from your grandma mixed with a vintage inspired bracelet can work beautifully together. Choose something that you will want to wear for many years to come so you can enjoy reflecting on the memories of your day each time you wear your jewellery."
"A beautiful strand of vintage pearls can be a perfect compliment to a wedding gown especially if they have an unusual clasp set with diamonds. Pearls are often popular because they are timeless," adds Katie. "One thing's for sure: you can be confident that your piece is unique and adds individuality to your wedding outfit."
Consider the cut and style of your dress, and don't be afraid to experiment and combine influences, materials and pieces for an eclectic and uniquely 'you' look.
Drakes
words Hannah May
Copyright Wed magazine 2014
